How to Clean Suede and Nubuck Shoes Without Ruining Them
Suede and nubuck look wonderful and terrify people the moment they get dirty. The good news is that cleaning them is straightforward — it just uses a completely different method from smooth leather. Use leather cream on suede and you'll ruin it, so here's how to clean suede shoes properly.
Suede vs nubuck: what's the difference?
Both have a soft, fuzzy surface called the nap. Suede is made from the underside of the hide, so it's softer and more pliable. Nubuck is the outer side, sanded to raise a fine nap — tougher and more durable, which is why it's used on hiking boots like our waterproof hiking range. Care for both the same way.
The golden rule: no water, no cream
Everything in our leather-care guide — damp cloths, conditioning creams, waxes — is wrong for suede. Water leaves marks, and cream flattens the nap permanently, turning your suede into a shiny patch. Dry methods only.
What you actually need
- A suede brush (brass or rubber bristles) to lift the nap.
- A suede eraser for scuffs and shiny spots.
- A suede/nubuck protector spray — never wax.
Step by step
- Let mud dry completely. Wet mud smears in; dry mud brushes off. Patience does most of the work.
- Brush gently in one direction to lift dirt and restore the nap.
- Rub marks with the eraser, using light pressure, then brush again.
- For shiny, flattened patches, brush more firmly against the nap to raise the fibres.
- Re-apply protector spray once clean and dry.
Water stains and salt
If suede gets soaked, don't panic — let it dry naturally away from heat, stuffed with newspaper, then brush the nap back up. For winter salt marks, brush first; if that fails, a barely damp cloth with a tiny amount of white vinegar can work, though it's riskier than on smooth leather. Our salt-stain guide covers smooth leather in full.
Prevention beats cleaning
Spray new suede with protector before its first wear and re-apply every few months. It won't make suede waterproof, but it buys you time to blot spills before they set — the same principle as in our waterproofing guide, with a suede-specific product.
Frequently asked questions
Can you clean suede with water? Avoid it. Water leaves marks on suede. Use a suede brush and eraser instead, and only consider a barely damp cloth as a last resort on stubborn stains.
How do you fix flattened, shiny suede? Brush firmly against the nap with a suede brush to lift the fibres back up. A suede eraser helps on shiny patches.
Can I use leather conditioner on nubuck? No — creams and waxes flatten the nap permanently. Use a nubuck-specific spray only.
Built to be cared for
Browse our nubuck hiking boots and handmade leather shoes, made in Estonia to last with the right care.