Resoling Boots: When It's Worth It, and How to Tell

The single biggest difference between footwear you replace and footwear you keep is whether it can be resoled. It's also the least understood part of buying quality shoes. Here's when resoling is worth it, how to tell if your boots can be resoled, and what it involves.

Why resoling matters

On a well-made boot, the upper usually outlives the sole by years. The leather is fine; the tread is worn. Resoling replaces the worn part and gives you a functionally new boot for a fraction of the price of replacing it — which is the whole economic argument behind buying well in the first place, as we set out in our piece on slow fashion.

Can your boots be resoled?

It depends on construction:

• Stitched or welted soles — designed to be removed and replaced. Ideal.
• Direct-injected or moulded soles — bonded to the upper. Extremely durable and won't separate, but harder or impossible to resole conventionally.
• Glued soles — sometimes re-glued, but the bond rarely lasts. This is the construction that makes cheap footwear disposable.

Look at the edge where sole meets upper: visible stitching is a good sign. Our AIPI boots use stitched, resoleable soles for exactly this reason.

When to resole

Don't wait until you're walking on the midsole. Resole when the tread is worn smooth but before the sole wears through — once water gets in and the midsole is damaged, the repair gets more expensive and may not be possible. Other signs: uneven wear making you walk differently, or losing grip in the wet.

What else a cobbler can fix

Resoling is the big one, but a good cobbler can also replace worn heels, restitch failed seams, replace insoles, stretch tight spots, and repair or replace hardware and eyelets. Most “ruined” boots are actually repairable.

Making resoling worthwhile

A resole is only worth it if the upper is in good condition — which comes back to care. Conditioned, waterproofed leather that's been kept out of direct heat will still be sound when the tread wears out. Neglected leather won't be. See our leather-care guide and waterproofing guide.

Frequently asked questions

How do I know if my boots can be resoled? Look for visible stitching where the sole meets the upper — stitched and welted soles are made to be replaced. Glued soles usually aren't worth resoling.

When should I get boots resoled? When the tread is worn smooth but before the sole wears through to the midsole — waiting makes the repair harder and more expensive.

Is resoling cheaper than new boots? For quality boots, considerably — which is what makes well-made footwear cheaper over time.

Built to be repaired

Browse our handmade leather boots and hiking boots, made in Estonia with resoleable construction.